Paris
Fashion Week was notable this year for the strong sense of wanting to shake
things up and to use fashion design to raise awareness about certain issues.
Guests
of French designer agnès b., for instance, received tote bags with a specific
message: “protest against the rising
tide of conformity”. It was her way of saying that everyone is becoming too
predictable, following trends.
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| agnes b. evokes the Caribbean |
The
designer’s mantra has always been that she “doesn’t do fashion” - she makes clothes;
and the Spring/Summer 2018 collection illustrated this philosophy. The garments
were supremely wearable while still being distinctive. They portrayed comfort
with individuality, according to one observer.
Some
of the designs were meant to pay homage to the spirit of the Caribbean, through
vibrant colours, Rasta themes and feminine cuts, alongside the motto of “vive
les ȋles” (long live the islands).
But agnès b. said she also wanted viewers to remember the Caribbean islands ravaged by recent hurricanes: Saint Martin, Barbuda, Dominica, Puerto Rico and others.
But agnès b. said she also wanted viewers to remember the Caribbean islands ravaged by recent hurricanes: Saint Martin, Barbuda, Dominica, Puerto Rico and others.
In
addition, the collection included easy daywear – shorts, skirts and dresses -
in khaki tones, as well as pastel-hued evening dresses that were striking in
their simplicity.
SIRLOIN
Some
designers believe that consumers really shouldn’t get all worked up trying to
fit in with fashion trends.
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| Sirloin |
“Sometimes
you look better when you go out in your pyjamas,” says Alve Lagercrantz, who runs
the Shanghai-based brand Sirloin with his partner Mao Usami.
“Rather
than trying too hard, just take things easy,” Lagercrantz advises.
For
their Spring / Summer 2018 collection, the duo said they drew inspiration from
Miami, and were also exploring “how China is mirroring American prosperity in
the 90s and becoming the new land of possibilities”.
What
this has to do with pyjamas is anyone’s guess, but most of the designs were
loose-fitting, and played with the idea that the models were in their own episode
of the classic Miami Vice television show.
Part
of the playfulness centred on the concept that underwear can be “outerwear”
as well. Why is a swimsuit not a suit, the designers asked. Their answer: it could easily become one, for those who have the “non-conformist” gumption to wear it away
from the beach or pool.
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| Sirloin: comfort is everything. |
Located
in an upscale neighbourhood, the apartment was an appropriate setting for models
who sauntered from room to room, sometimes pausing to slouch on an armchair or
to stand staring off into space with an expression of ennui.
The
clothing matched the mood – baggy trousers paired with silky tops, slack
dresses in summer yellows and whites, and, of course, underclothes.
The
two stylists, both graduates of Central Saint Martins arts and design college,
have said that their “ultimate vision is to create a full wardrobe ‘literally’
from inside out” and to make people feel comfortable stepping out in pyjamas.
They seem well on their way.
For
her Spring/Summer 2018 collection, French-Chilean designer Isabel Felmer used
the sumptuous locale of the Chilean Embassy in Paris to good effect,
contrasting futuristic designs with the classic decor of marble fireplaces and
moulded ceilings.
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| Isabel Felmer designer |
Her
show took the form of a performance rather than a straightforward défilé, as
the models strutted around a wood-floored salon to techno music, striking poses from time to time or
simply gyrating on one spot.
The
three performers - representing different regions of the world also - draped their
arms around doll-like mannequins dressed in suits or evening wear.
At first glance, it was hard to distinguish the live models from the statues, as together they evoked a space-age distance, a kind of future-to-the-past sentiment, which tied in with the stylist’s aims.
At first glance, it was hard to distinguish the live models from the statues, as together they evoked a space-age distance, a kind of future-to-the-past sentiment, which tied in with the stylist’s aims.
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| The designer. |
Here
too, these garments were for those who possess a strong individualistic streak, as Felmer paired masculine cuts with a flamboyant look for the white suits.
In the more colourful designs, she imprinted photos that she had taken onto the various fabrics. - Tasshon
In the more colourful designs, she imprinted photos that she had taken onto the various fabrics. - Tasshon
