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| YDE: the evocation of an intense era. |
The warm and generous applause that Danish designer Ole Yde
received for his Paris Fashion Week show was completely merited.
His Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear collection, inspired by
Shanghai of the 1920s and Thirties, dazzled the spectators lucky enough to see
it on March 9, the final day of Fashion Week.
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| YDE: walk like a goddess. |
Each of the designs seemed to out-do the one that preceded
it, in a collection that was elegant yet lighthearted, classic yet modern.
A willowy model in an off-the-shoulder golden gown set the tone for the evocation of an era that still influences today’s styles, and the event felt like a trip back in time while still being unquestionably current.
The show gave spectators good reason to audibly express their admiration, as they got a comprehensive view of Yde’s art and craftsmanship, on the long runway of the Palais de
Tokyo art museum.
The designer, who launched his YDE label in 2005, has become
known for his luxurious dresses, and he said he was inspired by the jewels
of the time in Shanghai, specifically the pearl – a “symbol of sacred power”.
Drawing from mythology that associates the stone with
goddesses, he made each model appear regal - in outfits that employed a wide
array of pearl shades, ranging from white and black to silver and rose, with
golden hues thrown in for that sense of awe.
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| Designer Ole Yde |
Enriching the colours were materials that included silk
chiffons, organza, fur and tweeds, all contributing to looks that seemed more
like haute couture than ready to wear.
Feminine, sophisticated cuts have indeed been Yde’s signature
imprint since 2002, when he left the Danish Design School and began creating
one-of-a-kind dresses for private clients, so it shouldn’t have been a surprise
that this collection again highlighted that skill.
But it’s his relationship with history, whether of Shanghai
or the Jazz Age in 1950s Copenhagen, that sets him apart from his peers. One
admirer called him “a romantic”, noting that he feels the “poetry of the past”.
The collection also featured some interesting partnerships,
with timepieces by Arne Jacobsen Watches, jewellery by Rebekka Notkin and those
iconic stiletto-heeled, red-soled shoes by Christian Louboutin – which heightened
the sophisticated silhouettes.
As spectators emerged from the show (and ran into a crowd
waiting to see the Miu Miu collection at a nearby venue), they felt privileged
to have witnessed something special, even among the hundred-plus events of
Fashion Week. And that’s a rare sensation. - Tasshon
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| YDE: intricate craftmanship and playful elegance. |
