One of the world’s most important menswear fairs, Pitti Uomo,
has teamed up for the second time with the Ethical Fashion Initiative (EFI) to
present four African designers at its biannual event, with asylum seekers
participating as models.
AKJP's show at Pitti Uomo. (Photo: Giovanni Giannona) |
On Jan. 14, the rising brands Ikiré Jones, U.Mi-1, AKJP, and Lukhanyo Mdingi x
Nicholas Coutts showcased their Autumn / Winter 2016 collections in
Florence at Pitti Uomo 89, under the title "Generation Africa".
The presentation followed a successful first edition with
Pitti Uomo last June, when the EFI selected and supported four stylists for its
African Designer Programme. That show was highly rated by fashion experts, but
critics said that the runway models did not reflect enough diversity.
This year, as “part of its mandate to raise awareness not
only on African fashion but also on social issues”, the Ethical Fashion
Initiative said it partnered with Lai-momo, an Italian organisation working
with migrants, to cast three asylum seekers to participate as models in the
show.
Ikire Jones design. (Photo: G. Giannona) |
“Africa is one of today’s creative poles and this show proves
that African designers speak about art, life and innovation. At the same time,
we are in an age in which many Africans come to Europe as migrants. We believe
in a program that enables them to work in the value chain of fashion,” said
Simone Cipriani, EFI’s director and founder.
Lai-momo assists asylum-seekers in Italy and promotes
cross-cultural exchanges between Africa and Europe “with the aim of reducing
stereotypes and preconceptions”, organizers said.
The EFI, founded in 2009, is a flagship programme of the
International Trade Centre, a joint agency of the United Nations and the World
Trade Organization. It has worked with leading designers such as Vivienne
Westwood and Stella Jean to facilitate the development and production of
“high-quality, ethical fashion items” from artisans living in low-income rural
and urban areas.
For the past two years, it has been expanding its scope so
that African designers can have greater access to global events. The four
brands showcased at Pitti Uomo this month represent South Africa (AKJP and
Lukhanyo Mdingi x Nicholas Coutts) and Nigeria (Ikiré Jones and U.Mi-1),
although the designers call other countries home as well. - McKenzie / Tasshon
Lukhanyo Mdingi x Nicholas Coutts. (Photo: Giovanni Giannona) |