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| Andrew Gn's sleeveless gown with beaded bustier |
After the carnival-like atmosphere surrounding several fashion shows on Saturday, the ambience at Paris’ imposing Palais des Beaux
Arts seemed positively “zen” on Sunday morning. The buyers, bloggers and beauty
queens waiting to see Andrew Gn’s autumn/winter 2004 collection at Paris
Fashion Week were of course flawlessly dressed, but there was little of the
flamboyance seen at some other shows.
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| Gn's black dress |
Gn, after all, has become known for the elegance of
his designs which many consider to be haute couture. His fans say it’s only a
matter of time before he becomes an international star and, at the show, one
could overhear comments of “he’s great, isn’t he?” and “we’re so lucky to see
him now”.
The Paris-based Singaporean designer opened the
collection with a bold black dress, comprising sheer mousseline sleeves and
skirt, and leather epaulets. More leather and silver metal buckles cinched the
garment at the waist. The model carried a matching black leather bag with a
horn clasp and woven silver metal strap.
From black, Gn moved to greys, greens, blues, reds and
other hues. The fabrics included crepe, flannel, tweed, satin and cashmere.
Metal eyelets adorned some ensembles, while leather added eye-catching details
to others.
A stunning flannel dress with ikat patchwork and black
leather peplum saw Gn splashing out with orange, green and pink. But the fun
was still to come.
The designer has a thing with robots, and he integrated this interest into his collection. The robots on the blouses and sweaters reminded one of Aztec deities, however.
The designer has a thing with robots, and he integrated this interest into his collection. The robots on the blouses and sweaters reminded one of Aztec deities, however.
This mischievousness was in contrast to the glamorous dresses
that followed: a strapless gown with green beaded bustier and flowing white
mousseline skirt; a sleeveless gown with a blue beaded bodice and black plissé
skirt; and a one-shoulder gown with transparent skirt - in unforgettable red.
If there was a drawback to the show, it was the packed
seating arrangement and the speed at which the models moved. The two combined
caused a few designs to seem rather fleeting, when one wanted to savour Gn’s creativity.
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| Andrew Gn: walk like a robot. |
VIKTOR & ROLF
The quiet yet vibrant elegance at Gn’s show seemed a
world away from the clamour of the previous day at the Jardin des Tuileries,
where Dutch designers Viktor & Rolf revealed their collection. The Gardens
teemed with photographers, dressed-for-effect fans and unwary tourists who must
have been wondering what on earth was going on. The feeling was like that of a
rock concert.
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| Viktor & Rolf: shades of grey |
The collection itself was in contrast to some
of the more flamboyant garments worn by spectators, as Viktor Horsting and Rolf
Snoeren went in mostly for grey. Subdued colors were the order of the day, with
loose-fitting grey v-neck dresses and sweaters worn with black platform shoes.
The models walked down a grey runway flanked by
streetlights, as if on some solitary lane, accompanied by a lone singer and
guitar - the American musician Joan As Police Woman. Her “lamentful” version of “Highway to Hell”
completely fitted the mood.
Viktor & Rolf did bring on silky browns as well,
with splashes of white or silver, and some pastel blues, but the overall effect
was of cool, distant glamour. Some of the designs as presented would require
courage for any wearer - grey-and-white striped jacket with printed trousers,
anyone? - but they could eventually grow
on a lover of ... grey.
Luckily for those who like a bit of colour, especially
in grey winter, the designers did show some bright, attractive dresses in
salmon, or shall we say, coral shades. Their use of geometric designs and
ruffles added interest, but the ubiquitous mixing of leather and fabric might
have been avoided.
Besides the clothes, Viktor & Rolf must be praised
for their multi-cultural cast of models.
Here, the show was a stand-out. - L. McKenzie & J.M. De Clercq
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| Viktor & Rolf: coral meets grey |
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| The designers |
