Thursday, March 6, 2014


YDE: ready for the music
Copenhagen’s jazz era was the inspiration behind the final show of Paris Fashion Week on Wednesday when Danish designer Ole Yde paid tribute to icons such as Billie Holiday and Ella Fitzgerald in his autumn/winter 2014 ready-to-wear collection.

YDE: the feminine look
“The gripping images of smoky piano bars, stormy nights, the scent of mahogany and the singing diva” were thus channeled through the creations from YDE, the label that the 34-year-old designer launched in 2005.

With elegant evening gowns of black and grey, the collection evoked the glory days of the 1950s and 1960s in Copenhagen, when a host of leading American jazz figures had a base in the city. But the ensembles also showed Yde’s understanding of the kind of clothes women like, according to his fans.

“The show was fantastic,” Denmark’s Ambassador to France Anne Dorte Riggelsen told Tasshon afterwards. “He feels women’s fragility and wants to protect them with his designs. He’s also romantic and has a real relationship with history.”

That romantic side came through in the use of silk, plush velour and embroidered lace, among the fabrics, while jazz’s dazzling aspect were suggested in gold details and arresting jewel accessories. 

YDE: where's my limo?
Later in the collection, audacious strokes of red and green also captured the energy of the genre. And a white coat brought to mind the image of a diva waiting to be whisked away in her limousine.

Feminine cuts, too, have been Yde’s signature style since 2002 when he left the Danish Design School and began creating one-of-a-kind dresses for private clients, and this collection highlighted that skill.

The form-fitting gowns and dresses had a time-honoured sophistication that went well with the venue for the show – the classical 18th-century Hôtel d'Évreux on the Place Vendome.

The palatial building was once owned by French nobility, including Louis XV and his mistress Madame de Pompadour; but on Wednesday Yde used it for what he called a “loving ode” to the great queens of jazz. - L. McKenzie & J.M. De Clercq

YDE: a gown for a diva  (Photo: De Clercq)