THEY CAME TO PARIS WITH NEEDLE, THREAD AND A DREAM

Fashion and immigration. What could the two have in common? For the answer, a visit to Paris’ Museum of Immigration History (Musée de l’Histoire de l’Immigration”) is a must this year.

Dresses from the first fashion immigrants.

Until 31 May 2015, the Museum is hosting “Fashion Mix”, an enthralling exhibition about the contributions of “foreign-born” designers to French couture. 

Many countries have produced great or aspiring designers who lived in Paris at some point in their career, and the exhibition takes viewers on a journey through the history of this particular migration.

From the Briton Charles Frederick Worth to the Tunisian Azzedine Alaïa, from the Italian Elsa Schiaparelli to the American Patrick Kelly - they all enriched as well as learned from French expertise, and helped to build Paris’ status as the world’s fashion capital.

The cover of the expo catalogue.

Subtitled “Mode d'ici, créateurs d'ailleurs” (French Fashion, Foreign Designers), the exhibition allows viewers to experience the journeys of selected stylists. It presents private and public archive documents such as passports, letters and naturalisation applications alongside the striking garments, headwear and accessories that the designers created.

The show is done according to nationality or “schools” and so manages to categorize the roles played by the fashion artists from specific countries or regions, such as the United Kingdom, Spain, Asia, northern Europe  and the United States.

The “British School”, for instance, is headed by Charles Frederick Worth, who is considered the father of Parisian haute couture. The story goes that he arrived in the city without a penny to his name (perhaps only with a needle) in the mid-19^th century, when he was 20 years old, and went on to conquer with his crinolette and “princess cut”.

Worth’s peers included Henry Creed and others, and the exhibition draws a line to later British designers such as Vivienne Westwood, Lee Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Stella McCartney.

A Balenciaga dress from the Sixties.

The “Spanish school” includes Cristobal Balenciaga, who fled the Spanish Civil War in 1936 and set up shop in a Parisian hotel; and Paco Rabanne, who also quit Spain for political reasons, studied in France and took the fashion world by storm in the 1960s with his iconic metal and plastic dresses. Their creations are among the most striking of the items on display.

But designs from the “Japanese school” also create a buzz. The members of this group shook up the couture scene in Paris in the Seventies and early Eighties, and their names have become intrinsically tied to French fashion. Kenzo Takada and Issey Miyake are undeniably the leaders, but the group comprises Junko Shimada, Henae Mori, Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto, among others.

Then there are the innovative Belgians and the fun-loving Americans.  The exhibition highlights the contributions of the Antwerp 6 + 1 (particularly Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten and Martin Margiela) who made a noticeable impact on French couture in the 1990s with their iconoclastic designs, and it also details the birth of “Belgian fashion”.

The colours of Issey Miyake.

Members of the “American school” are said to have realized their dream by being able to live in Paris, and many have become household names, such as Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors and Tom Ford.

But according to the curators of the exhibition, no other American designer expressed as much love for Paris as Patrick Kelly, the first American designer and first person of African descent to join the exclusive Chambre syndicale du prêt-à-porter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode - the fashion trade union that dates from 1868.

The love apparently was reciprocal as Kelly gained numerous fans with his playful and audacious designs. He lived in Paris for just over a decade, from 1979 to his death in 1990 (at the age of 35), and he’s buried at Père Lachaise cemetery. His tomb bears the epitaph “Nothing is impossible”.

Olivier Saillard

What’s nearly impossible for some visitors to believe is that besides Kelly, the only other designer of African descent listed in the exhibition is Mali’s Lamine Kouyaté, creator of the Xuly Bët clothing line.

Olivier Saillard, director of the Palais Galliera, or Paris’ Museum of Fashion - which co-organized the exhibition, said the curators would have liked to include more African designers but that very few have taken part in the official Fashion Weeks. He said he hoped that would change.  (Text & photos: copyright McK-DeC)

ITALY, AND THE ART OF ENJOYING BOTH NORTH AND SOUTH

Florence shows the colours of Tuscany.

So you've decided on Italy for this month's holiday, but you can't make up your mind whether it's going to be North or South. Your friends tell you that Florence will be the trip of a lifetime, yet you're kind of intrigued by that saying: "See Naples and die". 

Your pals aren't being of much help, however. Those who've been to Florence tend to wax lyrical about the charms of the Tuscan capital, known as the birthplace of the Renaissance and home to the largest concentration of art in the world, but when you ask them about Naples, you draw a blank.

Still, you should know that Naples has its own devoted fans, who love the rough-and-tumble atmosphere, the great pizza restaurants, the striking views of the bay, and the no-nonsense demeanour of residents. Even devotees, though, are aware of the seedier sides of the city, notorious for its history of organized crime and garbage piling up in the streets because of corruption in the waste disposal industry.

A view across the Bay of Naples.

The two towns are a study in contrast, offering very different "attractions" to travellers. Art lovers will find their visual feast in Florence, which seems to have a statue on every corner, often surrounded by hordes of photo-snappers. The city has palaces and historic buildings galore, with art on the ceilings and walls, in the courtyards and gardens. But you will have to brave the crowds to see some of the treasures as Florence generally has more tourists than residents in the high-season months of April to October, and sometimes in December.

Naples, meanwhile, attracts those who don’t mind, or may even enjoy, a certain form of realism: the roar of scooters, the bustle of people who don’t live for tourism, the view of a volcano in the distance, sturdy landmarks of a rich history, and an edgy ambience infused by illicit activity. North or South? The art of travelling is to appreciate both, and while most people might give the nod to Florence, here are some images to help you decide. Our tip: see Naples while you can walk without a cane!

Art on the piazza - a common sight in Florence.

Naples: a culture of litter?

Florence, with Il Duomo as centrepiece.

Yes, Naples has castles too, both historic and neo-Gothic.

Florence's Ponte Vecchio, Medieval  bridge with shophouses.

One of Naples' charming, challenging streets.

Florence by night.

Naples at dusk.

(Text and photos, copyright McK-DeC)

THE 'ISLAND OF ENCHANTMENT' LIVES UP TO ITS PROMISE

Puerto Rico has proclaimed itself the Isla del Encanto (Island of Enchantment), and this is no empty boast. Despite a number of social problems, as elsewhere, this eastern Caribbean island is a country of stunning landscapes, spectacular beaches and generous people.

The license plate tells the tale.

What one will remember most is the unexpected kindness of total strangers - such as the motorist who gave his own brand-new road map to lost travelers, and the lady who got out of her car to give directions and then said "follow me", leading one to one's destination.

Certain sights, smells and tastes will also linger: images of the hills in the distance, the scent of sweet, fried plantains (or plátanos amarillos, guaranteed to bring on the salivation), and the taste of mofongo, the typical dish of mashed plantains filled with meat or seafood.

Traveling around the island, away from the frenetic atmosphere of San Juan, means passing through postcard-type scenery, evocative of other Caribbean countries, but still somehow unique. Waterfalls, mountain views, historic towns and colourful bird-life make sight-seeing a true pleasure. And one mustn't forget to visit the markets, where heaps of fruit such as papayas, pineapples and guineps are displayed like art installations.

Below, Tasshon offers a photo essay on this singular island, whose Spanish, Caribbean, African and American parts make up a fascinating whole. Sí, let the enchantment begin. 

Tired of flying? Walk like an egret.

Some of the biggest papayas you'll ever see.

Water massage, anyone?

They call me "el chango".

Mind the falling coconuts.

The charming pueblo of San Germán.

A quiet day in San Germán, after the weekend bustle.

The beach in Condado, San Juan. Be careful of the undertow.

The hills are ... everywhere.

(Text and photos, copyright McK-DeC, with thanks to L. Collins Klobah)

PARIS FASHION WEEK: A UNIVERSE OF COLORFUL HEROINES

A Ground Zero design at Paris Fashion Week 

An outlandish kind of joie de vivre has been the order of the day since Paris Fashion Week began Sept. 23, with designers seeming ready to spring a new race of playful superheroines on the world.

Ground Zero's 'comic' creativity

From the very first day of the Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015 collections,  the London and Hong Kong-based label Ground Zero set the tone, with designs that could have been inspired by a childhood spent reading Marvel Comics.

The label's Eri and Phillip Chu, brothers, delivered a show that an onlooker described as “X-Men (or women) leisure style” for a day out in the sunshine.

Later in the week, one of our favourite designers, Manish Arora, also went in for that otherworldly heroine look, with characters in gladiator cyber sandals waiting beside their spaceships to welcome you into a pastel universe.

Arora can always be relied on for creating a buzz during Fashion Week, and with this exuberant collection, he didn't disappoint - as long as you were ready and willing to enter his "kaleidoscopic lunar world". 

Manish Arora: peace, love and pastels despite the gladiator look.
(Photo by Y. Vlamos)

NEW FESTIVAL LINKS FILM AND FASHION IN MILAN

For some, it’s just a natural fit - film and fashion - and Constanza Cavalli Etro is among those who believe this. She is the founder and director of the first edition of the Fashion Film Festival Milano, held at the start of Milan Fashion Week in mid-September.

Escandalo: A Cruise, by Dean Alexander,
won for best editing

With sponsorship mainly from the Italian Fashion Council (Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana), the hugely successful festival was the first event of this kind in Italy to showcase fashion movies from around the world.

According to Etro, famous feature films such as Prêt-à-Porter and The Devil Wears Prada indicate the  public’s interest in the world of fashion, and the festival wanted to take things further.

The long-term aim is to become a “meeting point for designers, video makers, directors and artists, who share great talent from all over the world”.

The event, which took place on Sept. 14 and 15, comprised two sections, a film competition and an exhibition. The competition featured  30 finalists selected from more than 300 submissions, while the exhibition portrayed the top fashion films from well-known directors and established brands.

Poster for the festival, with inspiring quote.

A panel of five judges selected nine winners in categories such as best fashion film and  best Italian fashion film, among others.

Cavalli Etro described the initiative as a means of combining her love and respect for fashion and her passion for cinema. Born in Buenos Aires, Argentina, she lived for many years in Mexico where she  became the fashion editor of Fashion Week Mexico and co-founded the first Latin America Film Festival. She now lives in Milan with her husband, the designer Kean Etro.

Her Fashion Film Festival Milano joins the ranks of other festivals devoted to the art of fashion. In Paris, A Shaded View on Fashion Film (ASVOFF),  was launched in 2008, and this year’s edition will take place in November, after Paris Fashion Week (Sept. 23 - Oct. 1). 

VIENNA SHAKES OFF STAID IMAGE IN BOLD ARTISTIC FASHION

From coffee houses and sachertorte, to “hipness” and creativity. Yes, Vienna is shedding its formerly staid image, with the help of cutting-edge fashion and a flourishing contemporary art scene.

Design by Michel Mayer
(Photo MQVFW/ T. Lerch)

The Austrian capital has a noticeably different atmosphere from years past, when the grand, imposing buildings, sounds of music and traditional cafés seemed to push visitors back in time.

Now, local and international designers are contributing to a vibrant fashion scene, amidst the baroque architecture, and new art and exhibition spaces are adding a youthful buzz to this historic city.

From 10 - 14 September, the Museumsquartier in the 7th district will become a giant runway with the MQ VIENNA FASHION WEEK, as the city vies with other capitals such as Paris, Milan and London for the title of trendsetter.

German designer Michael Michalsky will present his latest collection on the opening night, after which the week will see more than 70 designers participating. Viennese stylist Michel (Michaela) Mayer will be among those representing Austria, while others hail from Portugal, Thailand, Russia, Romania and a host of different countries.

The organizers of MQ Vienna Fashion Week

Last year the Fashion Week drew some 10,000 visitors, and the organizers say they expect more this year for the sixth edition of the event, which is unusual in fashion circles because of its accessibility.

“Unlike other Fashion Weeks, it is possible for everyone to buy a ticket and attend the shows, to see the upcoming trends being presented on a runway,” the creative headz organizing team - Maria Oberfrank, Zigi Mueller-Matyas and Elvyra Geyer - told Tasshon.

“We also offer a designated shopping area, where guests can shop the current collection from the designers that present their coming collection.”

Fashion by Susanne Bisovsky
Photo: MQVFW / T. Lerch

They added that the MQ VIENNA FASHION WEEK “offers young designers a platform to present their latest ideas” and that it has sparked collaborations outside of the traditional Fashion Week.

Asked to describe the fashion scene in the city, the organizers had this to say: “Like Vienna the city, the contemporary fashion scene is a delicate balancing act, between the classic and the young avant-garde.

“There are a great many young new fashion designers, further enriching the scene each year. We have well-established designers like Susanne Bisovsky, Anelia Peschev and Manufaktur Herzblut, who put their own spin on what can be considered to be classic fashion. On the other hand, we have young designers like Ruins of Modernity, R! by Dominique Raffa and Mariella Morgana, who have a more avant-garde approach, but are still ultimately wearable fashion.”

The growing group of young, enthusiastic stylists have already carved out a niche in the capital. In several areas of the city, particularly around Schleifmuhlgasse and Kettenbruckengasse, visitors are spoilt for choice by the array of boutiques offering modish outfits.

Dress by Susana Bettencourt,
a designer taking part
in MQ Vienna Fashion Week

Norbert Kettner, managing director of the Vienna Tourist Board, asserts that the city’s “avant-garde fashion scene has no end of collections” for visitors to discover.

The same could be said of the art field, as a thriving contemporary landscape has developed over the past years, complementing Vienna’s long-established museums devoted to the works of Klimt, Schiele and other icons.

The Museumsquartier (Museums Quarter or MQ), the site of the fashion week, is at the heart of the cultural resurgence. Inaugurated in 2001, it has expanded to become one of the ten largest cultural areas in the world, comprising museums, theatres, recreation facilities and restaurants.

This one-stop "culture feast" complex also houses mumok, the museum of modern and contemporary art, and here visitors will find artwork that contrasts hugely with Vienna’s erstwhile old-world air.

The modern interior of mumok (Photo: Tasshon)

Mumok is made for art fans who adore conceptual fare, and the wide spaces of the ultra-modern interior will appeal to such visitors. But for an in-depth look at an earlier “modernism”, one can head over to the neighbouring Leopold Museum, which boasts of having the world’s largest collection of works by Egon Schiele, along with a wide selection of paintings by Gustav Klimt.

The Leopold is the most visited museum at the Museumsquartier and with good reason, as it gives viewers a remarkable insight into the life and work of Schiele, who died in 1918 (at the age of 28) but who seems timeless.

In fact, Schiele’s paintings wouldn’t look out of place in the many current alternative art spaces in Vienna. These include das weisse haus, which changes locations according to its exhibitions, and the 21er Haus, housed in the former Austrian pavilion from the 1958 World’s Fair.

Known for its art shows and performances, the 21er Haus has billed itself as a “meeting point for fans of contemporary art” since its opening in 2011.

The Belvedere (Photo: Tasshon)

But contemporary art can also be seen in the traditional museums, which is part of what makes Vienna unique, according to Helena Hartlauer, the daughter of an artist and a member of the media relations team at the tourist board. “You don’t find this mix in other cities,” she told Tasshon.

At the Belvedere, the majestic former summer residence of Prince Eugene de Savoy, Klimt’s famous golden masterpieces such as “The Kiss” are on display. But in the same building, visitors can also view contemporary works.

This is equally the case at the impressive Kunthistorisches Museum, whose collections include famous paintings by the Flemish master Brueghel as well as Greek and Roman sculptures. The museum makes space for contemporary art in its programme too.

Works by Alex Katz  (Photo: Tasshon)

At the renowned Albertina, meanwhile, the range is from Leonardo da Vinci to Andy Warhol, with Manet, Cezanne, Klimt and Schiele also in the mix. Starting in September, the Albertina will show the “cosmic magic” of Catalan artist Joan Miró in a show titled “From Earth to Sky”. And until the 28th of September, visitors can catch the “cool aesthetics” of the American artist Alex Katz.

New York-born Katz, now 87 years old, donated 60 works to the museum, which has displayed them in an appealing manner, highlighting the artist’s contemporary style through sketches to portrait drawing.

As if all this wasn’t enough, there is art in the metro, art at hotels such as the Sofitel and the newly opened and very luxurious Vienna Park Hyatt, and art at diners such as Schaltwerk in the 6th district - a fusion of art gallery, bar and café

Cafe Central (Photo: Tasshon)

In addition, Vienna will host two major events this fall: the Vienna International Art Fair (aka Vienna Fair) in October and Vienna Art Week 2014 in November. 

Yes, this is the way to change one’s image, and when visitors have had their fill of art, they can still head to Café Central for a coffee and a slice of rich chocolate cake, never mind the rude waiters. - L. McKenzie

ILJA SERVES UP COOLNESS, CLASS AT PARIS COUTURE WEEK

Glasses of chilled, bubbly water welcomed fashion lovers in the front courtyard of an ambassadorial residence in Paris Monday, as Dutch designer Ilya got ready to present her couture show.

When spectators entered a stunning hall of parquet floors and taspestry-covered walls, they were greeted by long-stemmed white roses on each seat, giving everyone a “voorgerecht” - a little taste of what was to come.

Coolness and class were thus the promised flavours, and the show followed through on those first hints.

Ilya’s Fall-Winter 2014-2015 couture collection relied on a refined black-and-white color scheme, with salient splashes of corals and blues. Simple cuts and understated shades contrasted with intricate sculptural and geometric shapes.

Although most of the pieces highlighted femininity, suit-type ensembles did not look out of place, as they integrated some fashionable twists such as plunging v-necks and transparent fabric.

Outfits made from luminous material also bedazzled the eye, despite the overall discreet element of the show.  This was an altogether very wearable couture collection, evocative of Ilya’s journey to her current position as a designer who eschews needless flamboyance.

Born Ilja Visser, she started her career in fashion design at ArtEZ School of arts in Arnhem, the Netherlands. She went on to intern with Donna Karan (founder of DKNY), and Maria Cornejo, whose clientele includes American first-lady Michelle Obama and Scottish actress Tilda Swinton, queen of the ice-cool look.

Ilya founded her own company in 2005 and was the first designer to receive the prestigious cultuur mode stipendium award from the Prince Bernhard Cultural Foundation in 2011. 

The current collection suggests she might be in for several more prizes. - J.M. De  Clercq